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RE: Sawn Beam Repair?

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Thanks but, in this particular application, it would probably be cheaper to replace the beam. I believe the only cost effective method in this case would be to jack and strap. I'm just not sure it it will stay in place long term.


-----Original Message-----
From:	Sprague, Harold O. [SMTP:SpragueHO(--nospam--at)]
Sent:	Wednesday, October 01, 1997 10:12 AM
To:	'seaoc '
Subject:	RE: Sawn Beam Repair?


Some years ago, I had a similar problem on a structure.  We elected to:
1.  Epoxy inject the crack.
2.  Lag bolt on small steel WT sections near the ends of the wood member
3.  Install a guy cable and post tension the cable to a point where the
wood bottom fibers did not go into tension.

You must account for the additional post-tension compression load and
the wood beam must be properly braced to resist beam column action.  But
in our application, it was not a problem.  Generally you can provide
additional bracing to avoid a problem with combined compression and
bending.  The member also must be checked for post-tension and wind
uplift loading if it is a roof beam.

Harold Sprague
Black & Veatch

From: Bill Allen
To: 'seaoc(--nospam--at)'
Subject: Sawn Beam Repair?
Date: Wednesday, October 01, 1997 10:12AM

I am working on a project that is currently in construction. This is a
single family residence. I have specified a 4x12 #2DF beam supporting
some ceiling framing at the second floor. According to the contractor,
the beam had a slight crown (upward camber) when installed. Near the
midspan of the beam, there exists a knot near the bottom edge of the
beam near the midspan. A crack has developed at the knot and the beam is

Short of replacing the beam, is anyone aware of a practical technique to
repair this beam?

Bill Allen