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Re: Need advise on adding tension rod to wood beam to control deflection

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A flitch solution is indeed feasible.  Even using MC12's if the loads and
deflections require it.  The problem is, however, once you get the load in
the beam you have to get it out at the bearings.  Cross grain bearing can be
a problem.  Some time you end up relying on a couple of bolts (that's all
that will fit with the right spacing) to transfer the load to the bearing,
ring type face connectors, or even sliping in a steel bearing plate.

Michael Donoghue
-----Original Message-----
From: wish <wish(--nospam--at)>
To: SEAOC(--nospam--at)SEAOC.ORG <SEAOC(--nospam--at)SEAOC.ORG>
Date: Tuesday, December 23, 1997 4:23 PM
Subject: Need advise on adding tension rod to wood beam to control

>A client built a custom home about ten years ago. He installed a 6x14" DF#1
>beam through the livingroom to span 27 feet. The beam was supported at each
>end and with a column in the center - 13'-6" each clear span.
>A new homeowner wants to remove the center column. The original builder is
>on the scene and wants to consider an alternative to replacing the beam or
>adding a beam below the existing.
>He suggested the installation of a tension rod at the bottom of the beam to
>pull the beam up level. I've done similar in truss repairs, but don't feel
>comfortable with this since it would either rely up lag bolt connections at
>the angled plates on each end or require the contractor to plate the top
>bottom of the beam and drill through the 14" member. The top is probably
>already solid blocked which would make the installation of the top plate
>Any suggestions.
>Has anyone tried using 1/4" steel plates on both faces of the beam and
>stitching through with machine bolts (similar to a flitch plate design)?
>I could use some advise on this one.
>Dennis Wish PE