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Re: WOOD - Stud Wall Splice

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Richard Lewis wrote:

> I have a wood framed church under construction.  The sanctuary has a cathedral
> ceiling.  At the end of the sanctuary is a full height wall to the under side
> of a scissor truss.  The wall was detailed to extend all the way up to the
> ceiling.  The contractor built the wall to top plate height, which is 14 feet
> above the floor, at the bearing height of the scissor truss.  He wants to
> build a cripple wall (for lack of better term) above this to the under side
> of the scissor truss, another 5 feet at the ridge line.  This is an interior
> partition.
> I don't like this first, because it is not what I detailed, and second,
> because it puts a hinge in the wall.  I thought about using Simpson strap
> ties on each face of the stud and assuming a triangular stress block in
> compression to create a moment couple for the bending in the wall caused by 5
> psf of differential air pressure.  When I calculate the compression stresses
> of the stud to the wall plates the compression in the wood perpendicular to
> the grain is too high.  Now I know that we do not consider perpendicular
> stresses in stud wall design for sill and top plates, primarily because the
> deformation is not critical and it is pure axial loads, no moments.  But this
> is near the middle of the wall and has moment so deformation caused by
> overstressing could be detrimental.
> Has anybody else found a practical way to solve this kind of construction
> error before?  If possible I would rather not take the wall down.
> __________________________________________________

You could cut notches in the top plate and put in 10' (or longer) lengths of 2x to
frame the upper wall.  These studs would essentially extend the wall up the
required distance and would remove the hinge point at the top plate.  Depending on
whether this wall is supposed to act as a shear wall, you would need to add a
strap (Simpson CS16) to provide continuity to the notched top plate.