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RE: MISC: Reality Check - Dumb Question

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Thanks Ernie,
I follow you conventions and do the same thing - normally. In this case I
was hired after the design and details were done so I did not have as much
drafting control. In our area, metal stud homes were considered conventional
framing and as long as they were designed and constructed from HUD standards
(low income housing) licensed engineers and architects were not required
until after the adoption of the '94 code.
I cleary marked up the designers plans and gave him a shearwall schedule to
attach to the plans with markups as to what walls, straps and anchors go
where.
This was not followed by the concrete sub who poured the slab and set the
anchors. In many places the shearwalls have the appropriate anchors but in a
few locations they don't. The choice is to retrofit them in or consider my
original question as to the validity of the accumulated shear in the spliced
plates. Remember too, that this is metal stud and the tracks are spliced by
inserting a lenght of track inside the plate and screwing through the
flanges of the track to create a continuous sill plate - not something
easily done in wood.
The other problem is that cost is a big concern since these are low income
homes and every extra dollar is scrutinized by the non-profit group that
builds the homes.
But let me assure you, your way of detailing a plan is the best and I have
had very few problems or complaints following similar methods.
Thanks for your response and all of the others that I have received.

Dennis Wish PE

|-----Original Message-----
|From: ErnieNSE(--nospam--at)aol.com [mailto:ErnieNSE(--nospam--at)aol.com]
|Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 1998 10:05 AM
|To: seaoc(--nospam--at)seaoc.org
|Subject: Re: MISC: Reality Check - Dumb Question
|
|
|On all my commercial and residential jobs, even the smallest room addition,
I
|specify the bolt spacing at the shear wall and where the wall is 4 feet or
|less, I specify the no.of bolts. It takes a while but it is worth it to
make
|sure the field guys clearly understand it.
|
|I think it is a matter of engineer's judgement based on experience and gut
|feeling whether to use the whole building length sill plate or just the
shear
|wall sill plate only.
|
|I consider only full height wall(sill to top plate) as shear wall, show the
|location of this wall on the foundation plan(but without exact dimensions),
|and indicate with "+" sill bolt location and a small square with a dot
beside
|it to indicate post or double stud with hold-down at shear wall ends. Then
I
|label each shear wall with the note "4x4 w/HD5A and I/2" dia. A.B. at 16"
|oc(or 4-1/2" dia. A.B. for short walls) in between" pointing to the
hold-down
|locations. All other non-shear walls(below windows, etc) will have the "+"
|symbol at 6 ft oc. A lot of work for me but I have peace of mind and the
|foundation guys are happy with it.
|
|If the shear value each shear wall is low(100 plf or less) and there no net
|uplift, then I may make an exception but will look at it on a case-to-case
|basis.
|
|Ernie Natividad
|
|
|