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RE: Wood - replacing sill plate of bearing shear walls

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Another choice might be to "Sawsall" the connection of the studs to the sill
after shorting the joists bearing on the partition. Remove the plate in
sections. Cut out the rusted anchorbolts.  Slip in a new plate and toenail
the studs. For additional protection you can solid block between studs and
nail to the sill plate. Finally drill out for anchor bolts and epoxy in
place. Allow the epoxy to work it's way up through the drilled plates to
assure a tight fit. In most area's including Los Angeles, I have been able
to eliminate special inspection for shear anchors in wood framed homes
because the load per anchor (controlled by the capacity of the wood) is
usually less than half of the capacity of the epoxy connection in shear. The
city's generally allow you to install the epoxy without deputy inspection.
They may not in your case because it is an apartment building. You should,
however, be able to test 25% of the installed anchors (I think Sandy is
probably the best one to advise you on this).
I would recommend that you insure that any shear panels are boundary nailed
to both the new sill plate and to the row of blocking to insure a good
connection at the bottom (the plywood panels or metal lath nailing will help
the connection of the block and plate in tension.
I have used similar fixes where the contractor screwed up and slotted the
plate rather than to drill it 1/8" over the anchor size. Crazy but true. He
already had the roof stacked for tile and we needed to find a solution for
the entire home. I suggested the same as I wrote above. I also requited that
he strap across the cut-out and insure that the epoxy filled the cutout
voids. The strap and a small strip of wood block help prevent the epoxy from
flowing out. The strap returned the continuity in the bottom plate.

Dennis Wish PE

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Chiu [mailto:Tomchiu(--nospam--at)]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 1998 7:22 PM
To: seaoc
Subject: Wood - replacing sill plate of bearing shear walls

Have anyone ever replaced the sill plate of an exterior bearing shear
wall? It's a 10 years old multi-unit apartment building with water
damage in some nonbearing and bearing wall's sill plate and rusted
anchor bolts. I have the following options:

1.  Temporarily shore the bearing shearwall, remove and replace the
damaged sill plate with 3x plate and new Hilti-HSL bolts, add plywood
sheathing at the inside face of the wall.  This option could be

2.  Cut sill plate between bearing studs and install new 3x plates with
new studs nailed to existing studs and add hilti-HSL bolts. The new
sheathings will be nailed to the new sill plate pieces and the new
studs.  This option seems to be cheaper and avoid temporary shoring.
Note that there are 3 stories on top of this wall and fully occupied.

I would appreciate if anyone can provide comment, Thanks.