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RE: Clay Tile CMU

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Greg and Charlie,

When using a hammer drill, don't allow the hammer turned on when drilling
into hollow shells.  You will not get the back side pop out cone.  It also
requires a good masonry bit.  This is a good one for Sandy Pringle's Special
Inspection guide.

Based on the widely unprinted "Old Iron Worker Training Manual-What Works
and What Doesn't". 

While I'm typing, I have backed up masonry with metal studs before.  I used
the Tapcons and installed and tested several anchors to determine the pull
out force.  You can take the average ultimate and use a safety factor of 5
which is what is mostly done in the post installed fastener industry.

Harold Sprague

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Smith [mailto:strusup(--nospam--at)]
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 1999 7:56 AM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)
Subject: Re: Clay Tile CMU

When drilling through CMU with masonry bits, it often happens that the
inside of the surface breaks out in a cone shape (the outside looks fine).
Clay tile is probably similar to a greater or lesser extent.


-----Original Message-----
From: CanitzCF(--nospam--at) <CanitzCF(--nospam--at)>
To: seaint(--nospam--at) <seaint(--nospam--at)>
Date: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 9:58 PM
Subject: Clay Tile CMU

>I have a situation in which the customer has requested extending an
>interior corridor wall up to the floor deck above. The corridor wall
>of hollow clay tile and presently terminates 6" above the existing finished
>ceiling. The distance between the top of the wall and the floor deck
>is approximately 24". One option is adding three courses of CMU. Another
>option is install CFS studs with track and apply gypsum wallboard at each
>side. Regarding the second option, has anyone had any experience with
>attaching or anchoring material to hollow clay tile(i.e., Tapcon screws,
>anchor bolts, etc.)?
>Charlie Canitz, PE
>Bel Air, MD