You may not need to remove the dry rot (unless REALLY bad) if you use
a wood petrifier. One industrial strength wood hardener is LiquidWood
by Abatron, http://abatron.com/ (no www.). This product was
recommended to me by Dennis Wish and Harold Sprague some time ago when
I was restoring two balcony decks and some open patio framing. I
ended up not using this product but I heard it is the best on the
market. It should be for the cost. It was $150/gallon and $75/quart.
I opted for Wood Hardener from MinWax, www.minwax.com. It was about
$7.00/quart. The MinWax hardener is a clear liquid that looks and
smells like a mixture of acetone and airplane glue. The old wood
soaks it up like a sponge. It probably does not restore all the
original wood strength properties but it can save you time not having
to remove and treat the dry rot section. I also found it very
beneficial to seal the wood when you are finished with the repair.
Either paint or a Thompson Water Seal type product.
If you want a little more protection from the dry rot spores coming
back there are a number of fungus/wood rot products at the hardware
store. I used one that comes in a gallon container which is about two
thirds full. You fill the rest of the container up with bleach and
spray it all over the wood. You have to wait until it dries
completely before you can attempted any of the wood hardener repairs.
Thomas Hunt, S.E.
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Subject: Timber Dry Rot
Author: RoyLevy(--nospam--at)aol.com at fdinet
Date: 5/21/99 9:08 PM
I have to deal with a timber (4X8) beam that has sufferred from dry rot. I
plan to remove as much as possible of the dry rot and protect the beam from
future moisture. The beam is not heavily loaded and I believe that the
remaining portion of the beam is adequate to carry the load, possibly with
the help of reinforcement or partial splicing with new timber.
My question is: if all of the existing dry not is not successfully removed
(accessibility is not ideal) will the dry rot continue to propagate on the
modified, moisture-protected beam?