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Re: Timber Dry Rot

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     Roy,
     
     Funny that you question Thompson Water Seal.  Our homeowners 
     association has specific color requirements for the stucco, wood trim, 
     and patio decks.  That being the case they cut a deal with the local 
     Sherwin Williams store to give us a 10% discount for some free 
     advertising in our monthly news letter.
     
     When I bought the paint (as dictated by our HOA!) I asked the clerk 
     for a "Thompson like sealer" for the bottom of the deck.  At this 
     point the clerk went on and on about how lousy Thompson Water Seal was 
     and made the same comment you did about all the television hype.  He 
     then told me at least six reasons why their Sherwin Williams wood 
     sealer was better (UV protection, etc. etc.).  Since I was spraying 
     the under side of the deck I really did not care that much.
     
     I have never used Thompson Water Seal so I can't say it is good or 
     bad.  Best to check out something like Consumer Report or a lumber 
     yard/hardware sales clerk you trust.
     
     Anyway, I bought the Sherwin Williams wood sealer and applied it using 
     a pump sprayer so I could force it between the deck planks (2x4s) and 
     the joists.  I used the rest to provide an even coat over the entire 
     bottom deck including all the joists.  So far there has been no return 
     of dry rot or fungus pods and even the snails, ants, spiders, and 
     termites don't like it.
     
     Thomas Hunt, S.E.
     Fluor Daniel


______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: Timber Dry Rot
Author:  RoyLevy(--nospam--at)aol.com at fdinet
Date:    5/25/99 6:03 PM


Tom:
     
Thank you for your response.
     
I looked into using the  Abatron Products: Liquid wood  followed by Wood Epox 
to build up the removed areas, as  also suggested  by  Nels Roselund.  This 
may be the ideal solution, but the cost of the these products (retail, 
because this is for my own personal  use and I have no contractor license)  
that might be needed  for this application and the associated preparation  
and installation would appear to exceed a complete removal and ab initio 
reconstruction. 
     
I expect that the repair will be made along the lines  you followed: hardener 
and fungus inhibitor.  Thank you for suggesting this approach.  
     
However, I question the use of the Thompson product. I have been told in 
paint departments  that this is merely wax and the usefulness of the product  
is  partly advertising hype.
     
Roy Levy,  Ph.D, P.E.