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RE: Wood Vaulted Gable Roof Truss Endwall

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Ed,
If the wall is parallel to the truss, I routinely request additional trusses
and have them designed as drag trusses. This makes it much easier to build a
conventional plate and transfer shear through a conventional truss down to
the shearwalls below.
It seems to be worth a few extra dollars to manufacture the trusses special
and to insure their capacity in shear rather than try to panel up a pony
wall or balloon frame - even if the vaults are scissors and you need only a
couple of conventional horizontal bottom chord trusses for the sides of the
vaulted room.
I am not sure if this is what you are looking for. Almost every home with a
sloped roof in my area is done with plated trusses. It is simply more
economical and easier for the contractors to set up.
Regards,
Dennis S. Wish, PE
<mailto:SEConsultant(--nospam--at)Earthlink.net>
(208) 361-5447 Efax


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Fasula [mailto:tibbits2(--nospam--at)metro.lakes.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 3:15 PM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
Subject: Wood Vaulted Gable Roof Truss Endwall


Unfortunately, the norm around here is to frame a horizontal plate in, then
run studs up from the plate the random lengths to the vaulted bottom chord.
I have the lucky opportunity of tackling one of these BEFORE the building is
framed and the inspector asks for engineering.  I'd appreciate comments on
how you normally detail this connection to allow lateral force transfer into
the roof diaphragm.

For buildings we design, we have shown the (structural) gable truss set back
and continuous studs extending up to the underside of the roof diaphragm,
where a double plate is nailed to the sheathing, and studs are fastened with
joist hangers (as required).  I like it, but I don't think most contractors
do.  Is there anything as good but less painful to them?

Regards,

Ed Fasula EIT