Subject: RE: Reinforced Concrete Tank Seal @ Exist.
From: "Sprague, Harold O." <SpragueHO(--nospam--at)bv.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:18:47 -0600
Excuse the previous post. I was cleaning my keyboard and it went off.
There are many other post installed water stops that can be used depending
on the head. But you should be able to resist the bentonite seals with
properly detailed concrete walls.
You can also use:
1. Will Seal which is a pre-compressed joint with adhesive.
2. Jeanie joint which is adhered and compressed air applied until the
glue is set.
3. Sika Combiflex Joint sealant
4. Surface adhere a Greentreak PVC water stop to the existing concrete
and cast in the other end to the new concrete
5. You can also butt up the walls and inject the interstitial space
with SikaFix which forms a resiliant seal when in contact with water.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Fasula [SMTP:tibbits2(--nospam--at)metro.lakes.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 11:12 AM
> To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
> Subject: Reinforced Concrete Tank Seal @ Exist.
> We have to add on to an existing concrete manure pit. The local code
> allows some leakage, but personally and professionally I'd like to avoid
> any significant leakage at all.
> Common practice seems to be to cut a notch into the existing wall and
> create a construction joint. I would think doweling would be required as
> well. There is a bentonite based sealant, RX, that is sometimes used.
> It's not recommended where the bentonite can, and apparently has, actually
> swelled with enough force to crack the concrete.
> Any ideas about other directions would be appreciated.
> Ed Fasula, EIT