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Re: FW: Canopy Lateral Support

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I've done a similar detail on a few projects.  Here are a couple of
thoughts.

You will need to brace the column while the concrete cures.  If you're
drilling piers, this could be difficult.  If you're cantilevering from a
spread footing or a grade beam, a nut on the base plate top and bottom
should do the trick.  If you're going through a grade beam, a small spot of
concrete with anchor bolts placed first to fix the column could make it more
constructable.  (Think of a concrete cowpie with anchor bolts placed beneath
your grade beam.  I know, highly technical terms here.)

One thing to make sure of is that the top of the concrete slopes away from
the steel.  This is a great place for rust to start, because you can't paint
the steel below the surface of the concrete, and it's difficult to keep the
steel-concrete joint sealed.  You probably will need some ties around the
steel column to keep the concrete from cracking, and possibly weld some
rebar to the column to transfer your forces if direct bearing isn't enough.

That's my 2 cents worth.  Hope it helps.

Conrad

----- Original Message -----
From: "richard lewis" <rlewistx(--nospam--at)juno.com>
To: <seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: FW: Canopy Lateral Support


> Thank  you for your reply Eric.
>
> I am considering a grade beam option.  I have about 50 columns and it
> seams to me it would be easier to drill them then to trench out for grade
> beams.  It is a canopy and drive-up cover that wraps around a church.  If
> I use grade beams I would use them to locate "rigid frames" in select
> locations and use pinned spread footings elsewhere.  The area is going to
> be compacted structural fill.  My gut feeling is that drilled piers would
> be better, although I don't have any sound reason why that is so.
>
> If it is practical, I would like to encase the column somehow in concrete
> rather than use a 4 bolt base plate anchor.  I think I would get better
> fixity that way.  I would like some suggestions as to how to do that.  I
> anticipate using pipe or square tube columns.  If someone could give me
> some detailing information on that I would really appreciate it very
> much.
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> On Fri, 7 Dec 2001 07:48:38 +1000 "T. Eric Gillham PE"
> <teric(--nospam--at)gk2guam.com> writes:
> >
> > Another way to approach it would be to use a grade beam system in
> > both
> > directions.  Actually, I was faced with this choice a little while
> > ago, for
> > about 10 rain shelters that are being put at the tee boxes on a
> > local golf
> > course.  Fortunately, I was hired by the contractor to provide the
> > design,
> > so I was able to tailor the system to meet their preferred means
> > and
> > methods.
> >
> > Initially, I had proposed drilled piers with cantilever columns (all
> > R/C).
> > Soil conditions at most of the locations are poor, lots of clay, so
> > the
> > required pier depth was about 6 feet.  The contractor asked for a
> > change to
> > grade beams, because of the cost associated with getting the boring
> > rig out
> > to the sites given the rough terrain.  Also, since the rain shelters
> > have a
> > slab on grade, preparation of the interior area was required, so
> > trenching
> > out for the grade beams was just a little bit more effort.
> >
> > So, you may want to consider using grade beams - it depends on the
> > project
> > parameters - but it would be driven, I think, by cost, and the
> > contractor
> > (if available) would be able to tell you which option is better.
> >
> > BTW, you are saying that you will have uplift on the canopy roof -
> > is it
> > partially enclosed?
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > T. Eric R. Gillham PE
> > PO Box 3207 Hagatna, Guam 96932
> > Ph:   (671) 477-9224
> > Fax: (671) 477-3456
> > Cel  (671) 687-7115
> >
> > teric(--nospam--at)gk2guam.com <mailto:eteric(--nospam--at)gk2guam.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: richard lewis [mailto:rlewistx(--nospam--at)juno.com]
> > Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 7:23 AM
> > To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
> > Subject: Canopy Lateral Support
> >
> >
> > I am designing a canopy to cover sidewalks and provide for a
> > drive-up
> > drop off for vehicles.  The overall depth of the roof structure is
> > about
> > 2 feet.  I want to get some feedback for lateral stability and
> > foundation
> > gn.  My initial thought is to cantilever columns from drilled piers
> > sockets to stabilize the canopy.  The roof structure is relatively
> > thin
> > (2 feet).   It does not have much in the way of lateral wind load,
> > but it
> > does have uplift.
> >
> > I would like some feedback on whether that is a good method of
> > lateral
> > stability for a walkway canopy or if there is another method that
> > would
> > be easier and cheaper.  Last, can someone give some information for
> > the
> > actual pier foundation system.  Do I just bury a steel column into
> > a
> > concrete pier?  What corrosive resistant details do I need to
> > consider or
> > include?
> >
> >
> > Rich
> > ________________________________________________________________
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