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Re: Log Construction questions

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From: "Forrest Braun" <fbraun(--nospam--at)>

> Typically, I use drift pins driven though one log into the log below and
> base the capacity on the principles of single shear connectors in NDS.

Well, I found these Olympic fasteners ("OlyLog", I believe) that looks like
it might be a good choice (open to criticisms of this fastener if anybody
doesn't like it). 30" o.c. is what I'm seeing.  Assume something like a 12"
(for an 8" log) would be the recommended.  Stagger 2" - back & forth - at
each course?  Set back 6" off of each window / door jamb?

> Overturning on the wall panels needs to be reviewed carefully.  Usually
> the only vertical through tie that can be used for tension is all-thread
> rods at the ends of the total wall.  These are often used to pull the
> logs together as they shrink but can be used for the tension as well.

I assume you mean here a continuous threaded anchorage - from foundation to
plate - is this right?  I am assuming (if so) that some detailing of the
plate conditions (at the corner there at the gable end) to access this
threaded rod to (periodically) tighten the nut as the structure settles. Is
that it?

> Due to the shrinkage in the logs using interior partitions as shear
> elements has to be done with great care.

I was thinking (and saw somewhere) to put some lagged anchors (in something
like some 1/4" plate square washers) in slotted holes - initially located at
the TOP of the slot (slot overlength say 1" more than calculated settlement)
on the shear wall element - maybe 2 or 3 spread along the 8' height of the
wall.  As noted in my first post, what seems to be workable would be to
sheath this (conventionally framed) shear wall with 1" rough lumber on both
sides - at 45° - the 'classic' diagonal sheathing, if you will - anchored
appropriately to the floor (a concrete slab-on-grade).  Exposed (with gypsum
board over remainder of wall), this *could* be a rather interesting design
element (considering the 'rustic' nature that log homes are typical of).

>As a result most interior walls are provided
> with a slip connection at the top.

That was my plan.

> Getting kiln dried logs would be out of the
> question.

Doesn't look like this is going to happen anyway.

Thank you for your input - it was helpful.

-- john.

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