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RE: Water Proof Membrane

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Rich,
Silanes work best in the lab.  Siloxanes work better in the field.  3M
produces a product that has both Silanes and Siloxanes.  The general
category of these products is penetrating sealers.  They work pretty well.
Use a Rilem tube test to verify proper performance. 

Penetrating sealers are water repellants, traffic bearing membranes are
waterproofers.  The penetrating sealer products are not as effective as a
traffic bearing membrane, but they are not bad.  If the space underneath is
an office, I would suggest going to the membrane.  If the space is not all
that critical, use the penetrating sealer treatment.  

Most manufacturers will site compliance with NCHRP 244.  Gerry Litvan at
Institute for Research in Construction, National Research Council, Ottawa,
Ontario has researched these products probably more than anyone else.  The
Alberta DOT also did a lot of research in penetrating sealers.

The cracks, as you indicated, should be routed and sealed with a good
polyurethane sealant.  This is especially true if they are active cracks.
Take a look at Pecora Dynatread.

CTL and Wiss, Janney, Elstner are 2 labs that have done a lot of research
and product evaluation in this area as well.  

UV degradation is not much of an issue, but you will have to reapply the
sealer about every 5 years.  You can expect about the same longevity with
the polyurethane crack sealants.  

I have had the best service and experience with ProSoCo.
http://www.prosoco.com/  They sell a suite of various products that would be
applicable for a penetrating sealer.  

The most effective application technique is the flooding method.  

I don't know how much area you are talking about, but you may want to select
several products, try them, evaluate the best one, and select the best one
for the project.  

Regards,
Harold O. Sprague

-----Original Message-----
From: richard lewis [mailto:rlewistx(--nospam--at)juno.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 11:47 AM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
Subject: Re: Water Proof Membrane

I appreciate everyone's input on this.  I should say that the cracking of
the slab is not too extensive.  The slab was well jointed when
constructed but there are some cracks occurring on the walk.  The
underside of the slab is in good condition.  There aren't any spots where
spalling has occurred or where rust stains are evident.  There are just
some hairline cracks that leak.  The building is located in East Texas so
deicing salts are not an issue.  It has a canopy over it but it is very
high and windblown rain comes on the walk.

The onwer obviously doesn't want to spend much money on it.  Taking the
existing slab out and replacing it is pretty much out of the question
unless I find some other problems.  

I recall that about 12 years or so ago there was a product termed as a
"Silane" that kind of worked like wax on a car if I were to simplify it. 
The silane made the water bead up into balls that were too big to enter
the pores of the concrete.  Is that something that others have used?  I
would imagine this would be a periodic maintenance application.  Any
problems with UV exposure to it?

James, I'm not sure what you mean by "lowering the soffit" in your note
below.

Thanks a gain for all past and future input!

Rich

On Mon, 13 Oct 2003 10:12:41 -0400 "jccpc" <jccpc(--nospam--at)msn.com> writes:
> Before entering on an epoxy repair, consider first whether the cracks 
> are
> affecting the structural performance of the wall. If they are not, 
> and the
> cracks are due to thermal movement or other non-structural recurring 
> cause,
> use a flexible waterproofing sealant rather than an epoxy.
> 
> Also consider what is causing the leakage through the sidewalk 
> (assumed from
> your post). In NYC, this is a common construction and a common cause 
> is the
> application of salt to the sidewalk during the winter. This can have 
> a large
> impact on the choice of waterproofing membrane. If would be better 
> to seek a
> solution which avoids the cause rather the corrects the resulting 
> problem.
> You indicated you could not raise the level of the sidewalk - can 
> you lower
> the level of the soffit?
> 
> James Cohen, PE
> James Cohen Consulting, PC
> http://expertpages.com/jccpc
> 
> 
> 
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