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RE: pool wall design

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My first reply to this ended up as an attachment (?).  I know that I don't open attachments from this list so I am resending the information, hopefully, not in an attachment.
It has been a while since I have designed pools but there is some criteria out there regarding the slope at which support is considered -- 20 or 30 degrees or so.  This makes the weight of the wall acting as part of the outward cantilevered moment.  Support of the water pressure is assumed to be directly against the soil except for the top 2 or 3 feet and that has to be cantilevered for water pressure out (construction removal of the soil and inadequate re-compaction).  A bond beam needs to be at the top and it has to be able to span across the width of the equipment access trench to dig the pool (8 or 10 feet).  Expansive soil applies more pressure for the cantilever part of the wall and should be considered.
A "floating" pool (no lateral soil support) is a whole different thing.  A pool supported on piles is a real challenge.
A hydrostatic relief valve should be installed in the deep end so that any water pressure when the pool is empty will just fill the pool and equalize the pressure.
Probably local construction conventions will dictate the size and spacing of rebar but usually it is somewhat close at the bottom and is cut off part way up.
You should check regulations for depth when there is a diving board and be sure you are covered there.  You should also have structural details for the light box and filter boxes.
This information is about 20 years old and there may be some other things that I have forgotten to include.  If you are only going to do one or two (see Stan's post) I would recommend that you don't do it.  If you are going to do lots of them then it is worthwhile to do a lot of checking first and make up your fee on the repeat ones.
If you get into the mechanical aspects, i.e. size of pumps, etc. be sure to do your homework because there are limitations and restrictions.
Jim Persing