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RE: Pocket door in a wood shear wall

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Joseph -

If I'm seeing the picture right, you have a structural wall framed with
studs in the weak direction. If this was O.K., many architects would be able
to sell a lot more square footage by using 1-1/2" thick walls instead of
3-1/2". You might be able to get your studs to calc in bending for the 5 PSF
partition load (stress-wise not bad, deflections don't look good), but your
end post, which is also in compression as well as tension, will likely
exceed l/d requirements (old school value of 50). This is assuming you've
already figured out how to attach a hold down and still be able to close the
door. Personally, I wouldn't use such a weak assembly for a shear wall.

I treat pocket doors like windows or regular doors and terminate the shear
walls before the pocket door. I also size the header for both the opening
and the pocket.

Just my opinion.

T. William (Bill) Allen, S.E. (CA #2607)
Allen Designs
Consulting Structural Engineers
http://www.AllenDesigns.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Harouni [mailto:jharouni(--nospam--at)sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 11:19 AM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
Subject: Pocket door in a wood shear wall

Hi,
Does anyone have experience with Pocket Doors in wood shear walls? The 
architect shows a 2x4 on one side and flat 2x4 on the other side of the 
door, the gap is 1 inch.
Thanks,
Joseph Harouni


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