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Re: Pocket door in a wood shear wall

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Joseph:

I couldn't say it any better than Bill Allen.  Make the rest of the shear
wall work with the boundary post for hold down if needed adjacent to the
pocket door pocket and treat the pocket as an opening.

Ray Shreenan SE

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Allen, S.E." <T.W.Allen(--nospam--at)cox.net>
To: <seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pocket door in a wood shear wall


Joseph -

If I'm seeing the picture right, you have a structural wall framed with
studs in the weak direction. If this was O.K., many architects would be able
to sell a lot more square footage by using 1-1/2" thick walls instead of
3-1/2". You might be able to get your studs to calc in bending for the 5 PSF
partition load (stress-wise not bad, deflections don't look good), but your
end post, which is also in compression as well as tension, will likely
exceed l/d requirements (old school value of 50). This is assuming you've
already figured out how to attach a hold down and still be able to close the
door. Personally, I wouldn't use such a weak assembly for a shear wall.

I treat pocket doors like windows or regular doors and terminate the shear
walls before the pocket door. I also size the header for both the opening
and the pocket.

Just my opinion.

T. William (Bill) Allen, S.E. (CA #2607)
Allen Designs
Consulting Structural Engineers
http://www.AllenDesigns.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Harouni [mailto:jharouni(--nospam--at)sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 11:19 AM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
Subject: Pocket door in a wood shear wall

Hi,
Does anyone have experience with Pocket Doors in wood shear walls? The
architect shows a 2x4 on one side and flat 2x4 on the other side of the
door, the gap is 1 inch.
Thanks,
Joseph Harouni


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