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Re: RESIDENTIAL: What A Drag

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If I understand your situation, I believe what you need to do is to use triangular sections of plywood to carry the roof shear down to the second floor ceiling joists and to your second floor shear walls.
 
Stan Scholl, P.E.
Laguna Beach, CA
 
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:15:02 -0500 "Bill Polhemus" <bill(--nospam--at)polhemus.cc> writes:

More of my mental meanderings herewith, as I attempt to continue my transition into the exotic world of residential structural design.

 

As many of you have seen by my posted example on an earlier thread, I’ve got a convoluted roof design that I’ve only just unraveled geometrically.

 

One thing I’m concerned about that I haven’t been able to resolve to my satisfaction as yet, is the need to tie the roof to the walls, and the use of DRAG STRUTS to accomplish same.

 

Unlike on a nice, quiet flat- or low-slope roof, where the diaphragm is conveniently “there” wherever you want to connect it, these three-dimensional roof geometries for residential construction mean, I assume, that I’ve got to have some sort of truss element or some such contraption to connect the “drag strut” at the top-of-wall level to the roof at some arbitrary elevation above. I guess the manufactured roof truss people deal with this all the time (but unfortunately manufactured roof trusses are considered “too expensive” in our market).

 

Has anyone dealt with this in “stick framing”? What sorts of solutions have you come up with?