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Re: Repairing Cracked Masonry

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Not really freezing but adding ductility to a very brittle failure zone.
The structural movement is the main contributor I'm am underpinning the foundation where practical but I expect movement to persist for the life of the structure unless retrofitted which I would guess would cost $1 to $2 mil or more. This is merely a Band-Aid to facilitate waterproofing until funds are available.


----- Original Message ----- From: "Jordan Truesdell, PE" <seaint(--nospam--at)truesdellengineering.com>
To: <seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org>
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: Repairing Cracked Masonry


This doesn't answer your question, but will "freezing" your masonry cause a massive failure elsewhere? Is this the result of too few expansion joists and thermal stresses? I'd hate to see you stiffen three or four smaller cracks just to end up with a veneer failure due to stackup deflection. Alternately, would cutting the joint (widening the crack to a uniform width) and using backer rod help (make the % change in crack size smaller between cycles), or is that too visually obtrusive?

At 11:49 AM 11/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
Lister,

For the sake of brevity I will condense a very complex problem into a simple question that I have no answer for: I have a large crack (actually many large cracks) in the brick veneer on an eight story building. This crack allows water to penetrate the building and attempts to caulk have been unsuccessful as the crack moves thereby dislodging the caulk. I am contemplating the addition of a small (say #2) rebar in the grout joint (grind out joint repoint with epoxy mortar or other?) so that the reinforcing crosses the crack in essence stitching the crack together. Then applying the caulk with the idea that the added reinforcing will control the crack from movement beyond that which the caulk can tolerate. I can see extending the reinforcing 24" or 36" on each side of the crack This is not to stop the building movement but to facilitate waterproofing the brick facing.

My simple question is--- will the rebar bond well enough to the brick and mortar for this to be effective? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated ~:-).


Rand



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