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Re: Repairing Cracked Masonry[Subject Prev][Subject Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next]
- To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
- Subject: Re: Repairing Cracked Masonry
- From: "Harold Sprague" <spraguehope(--nospam--at)hotmail.com>
- Date: Tue, 09 Nov 2004 20:43:04 +0000
Rand,You may have to use more than one mortar in your application. You may have to use a more fluid mortar to bond to the rebar and masonry, and confine it with a backer rod. You will then have to remove the backer rod and use a mortar matching the existing mortar in color and texture. On the exterior mortars, I like to develop a matching mortars. I don't know how old your building is, but a matching mortar is better than one that contrast.
When I say "develop". You will have to work with a masonry contractor and try to mix mortars of various consistencies to get the performance you want.
One other thing that you need to bear in mind is that brick masonry mortar will expand AND contract depending on the temperature and humidity. You also need to be aware that creating a hard spot in a wall (using a type S mortar in some areas in a field of N mortar) can cause the fracturing of the face shells.
Regards, Harold Sprague
From: "Rand Holtham, P.E." <rand(--nospam--at)sigmaengineers.com> Reply-To: <seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org> To: <seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org> Subject: Re: Repairing Cracked Masonry Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2004 12:50:46 -0600 Stan,It looks like that's what they've used previously. These are large cracks say 1" wide. The rebar will not fully restrain movement, it is after all just a 1/4" rod but hopefully would add ductility to the joint and hopefully restrian the movent that disloges the caulk. Yes there is a lot of hope in that sentence. Point well taken though.Harold,I have my doubts too, that's why I posted... what do you mean develop a mortar doesn't an epoxy mortar already exist?David,The Engineer who evaluated the problem 15 yrs ago had the same conclusion as you did. But he neglected to notice the 4 to 5" of differential movement in the foundation and that there is no discrete lateral force resisting system. Differential foundation movement alone can cause a variety of crack shapes vert, horiz, stairstep then add the displacement from wind loading.Now set me straight on the expanding brick...As the brick expands it creates a 1" gap??? I thought you leave a 1" gap so the material can expand into that gap without causing distress....(I'm with you that clay expands and concrete shrinks over time but...)Keep it coming this is productive, Thanks guys :> Rand ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Fisher" <dfisher(--nospam--at)fpse.com> To: <seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org> Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 12:15 PM Subject: RE: Repairing Cracked MasonrySounds like "Mother Nature" has created a control joint where none previously existed... Is that true? What, if anything, did the architect specify? Since it's vertical and not stepped, it would appear to be the result of thermal/moisture stresses and not structural issues... As we know, clay expands when wet while Portland cement products (CMU) Shrink over time.If it's a naturally occurring control joint, its probably needed in exactlyor Nearly that spot. Treat it as such: fill the gap with a compressible filler and backer rod/seal the Exterior side of the joint. David L. Fisher SE PE Fisher + partners 372 West Ontario Chicago 60610 312.573.1701 312.573.1726 fax 312.622.0409 mobile www.fpse.com -----Original Message----- From: Rand Holtham, P.E. [mailto:rand(--nospam--at)sigmaengineers.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2004 11:49 AM To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org Subject: Repairing Cracked Masonry Lister,For the sake of brevity I will condense a very complex problem into a simplequestion that I have no answer for:I have a large crack (actually many large cracks) in the brick veneer on an eight story building. This crack allows water to penetrate the building andattempts to caulk have been unsuccessful as the crack moves thereby dislodging the caulk. I am contemplating the addition of a small (say #2) rebar in the grout joint (grind out joint repoint with epoxy mortar or other?) so that the reinforcing crosses the crack in essence stitching the crack together. Then applying the caulk with the idea that the addedreinforcing will control the crack from movement beyond that which the caulkcan tolerate. I can see extending the reinforcing 24" or 36" on each side ofthe crack This is not to stop the building movement but to facilitate waterproofing the brick facing. My simple question is--- will the rebar bond well enough to the brick and mortar for this to be effective? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated ~:-). Rand
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