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Re: Signing for built-up wood beam

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Dave,
I am not signing or sealing the drawings; the design engineer is doing that. I am passing my comments on to him and then I will apply my BCIN(bull seasoning number) to the drawings so that the municipal building department will accept them. This BS no. is supposed to attest to the fact that the drawings conform to the Ontario Building Code. This law came into effect on 1 Jan 06 and a lot of people have not written their exams yet or do not intend to do so-they will hire someone like me to apply their number. The exams(open book) are really a test of your ability to remember where stuff is in the code and interpret it properly (code is a 3" binder, with a supplementary guide(also law)in a 2" binder with an illustrated guide(non-mandatory) 2" binder all 8.5" x 11"). The exams consist of legal, structural, large buildings, small buildings, housing, complex buildings, sewage and sanitation, and mechanical. Consequently a lot of non-English native tongue designers have a hard time. It is really an open attempt by the gov't to download all responsibility for code conformance from municipalities onto the designers(architects, engineers and drafts-people), which includes mandatory minimum insurance coverage. No BCIN, no permit. Consequently,the Professional Engineers of Ontario are suing the government of Ont. for undermining the Prof Engineer's Act which grants professional engineers exclusive rights to administer, regulate and enforce the practise of engineering. Sorry for the long reply, but it is a very sore point up here and for others, I recommend you watch out because other jurisdictions will jump on this band-wagon.
Gary

Dave Gaines wrote:
Gary,
The wood beam problem sounds like a tough one, with the joists on both sides. The steel joists may allow a post-tension solution if a hole can be drilled through the joists for the tie rods. If you stamp and sign the drawings you are taking responsibility for the design. Make sure you're comfortable with the solution. Good luck and let us know how you work it out.
Dave Gaines
Pasadena, CA

    ----- Original Message -----
    *From:* Gary L. Hodgson and Assoc. <mailto:ghodgson(--nospam--at)bellnet.ca>
    *To:* seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org <mailto:seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org>
    *Sent:* Tuesday, June 06, 2006 5:02 AM
    *Subject:* Re: built-up wood beam

    Bill et al,
    Thanks for the replies.  I should have explained that the existing beam
    has existing joists on both sides supported by light steel joist
    hangers
    which makes it almost impossible to remove the existing beam. The
    job is
    an addition/expansion of a large high-end house with additional loads
    now being imposed on the existing solid 9 x 11.5 beam. I don't have
    most
    of that information you mentioned as the original designer is an
    engineer who is taking ultimate responsibility.  Under the wonderful
    world of red tape that we have here in Ontario, I was hired by him as I
    have passed my code knowledge exam and have a BCIN (Building Code
    Identification Number better known as a BS no.) which allows
    drawings to
    be submitted to a building department whereas he hasn't passed his
    exams
    yet.  Hence, the situation where I am reviewing these drawings for code
    conformance but theoretically not for structural adequacy-how do you
    separate the two? See, it is all BS. I hope he passes his exam on 12
    June.  I would rather put a steel plate on the bottom fastened with
    vertical through bolts and not worry about glue, E values, moisture
    content and surface condition.
    Gary

    bcainse(--nospam--at)aol.com <mailto:bcainse(--nospam--at)aol.com> wrote:
     > Gary-
     > Have they considered just replacing the beam?  By the time you go
     > through the analysis, specification and construction process it
    may be
     > cheaper just to replace it.  If you do what is proposed, consider:
     > 1. Is the hardwood plank at same moisture content as beam? (possible
     > differential shrinkage)
     > 2. What are the relative E-Values of the two wood materials? How
    will
     > you determine these?
     > 3. What load are you upgrading from and to? I.e., Is there a
    change in
     > loads, an existing defeiciency, an aesthic issue?
     > 4. What type of epoxy and what are the elastic modulus and shear
     > strength values of it? Some epoxies are more flexible than others
    and
     > that may affect how the two members interact.
     > 5. How will quality of the gluing be assured. What controls will you
     > require to prepare the surfaces, apply the epoxy, cure the epoxy
    and how
     > will they be monitored.
     > If you want to feel warm and fuzzy, burn the old beam in the fire
    on a
     > cold winter's night and replace it with a new beam!
     > Regards,
     > Bill Cain, S.E.
     > Berkeley CA
> > > -----Original Message-----
     > From: Gary L. Hodgson and Assoc. <ghodgson(--nospam--at)bellnet.ca
    <mailto:ghodgson(--nospam--at)bellnet.ca>>
     > To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org <mailto:seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org>
     > Sent: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 08:46:49 -0400
     > Subject: Re: built-up wood beam
     >
     > List,
> > I have been asked to review drawings for a house addition, The
    designer
     > has called for an existing beam (9h x 11.25v actual or nominal?)
    to be
     > reinforced with a 2" x 11.5" hardwood plank glued on the flat to the
     > bottom of the existing beam with an epoxy glue. I am assuming the
     > original beam is S-P-F or Doug Fir as that is pretty standard around
     > here. No grades or species were given. I have never heard of such a
     > thing and do not want to comment on it if it is acceptable
    practise but
     > it seems strange to me. The house is approximately 20 years old. I'm
     > just wanting to feel warm and fuzzy about this.
> > TIA, > > Gary > > > > ******* ****** ******* ******** ******* ******* ******* ***
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