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re: wood deck flooring

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Brian and Scott:
Since I personally know this is Scott´s bread and butter (one of the 
main meals at least), I will defer to his advice which is thorough and 
top notch as always.

However, in my own defense after being labeled a "conservative" (lol), 
my thinking is that the cost of reducing the spacing is just a few 
extra beams (assuming a normal sized house). The overall % difference 
in total construction costs is negligible given what houses are going 
for in FL now (don´t think the client will mind), especially compared 
to how to fix a "squishy and squeaky" floor down the road, and client 
happiness is the goal after safety and code compliance. I wasn´t 
trying to imply I had run calcs, because in this case I know bending 
and shear and even code dictated deflection is not the issue, to me it 
is the performance you want (how the floor feels, especially over the 
years), which is a very stiff and quiet floor.

Now I don´t have much experience with T and G decking as far as 
performance. Scott, say 2ft span with 2x  (with continuous spans over 
8ft+ length of boards) gives you the desired performance without T and 
G, how much more could you increase with T and G? Another 4"-6" you 
think (maintaining the same "feel of the floor")?? Also, maybe you can 
suggest to Brian where to get diaphragm info for this type of system.

 I retrofitted the second story of my house after I grew tired of the 
carpet and the noises, the cause being the approx 5/8" sheathing, some 
places laid in small pieces, and nailed. Prior to redoing the bathroom 
the floor was the cause of several tiles cracking. The span was 16", 
pretty standard and I had no problems with that. I screwed and glued 
full sheets of new 1/2" plywood wherever possible over top the 
existing floor, making sure I overlapped the joints of the existing. I 
was replacing the carpet anyway, so for less then $400 and some sweat 
and help from a buddy, I had a new floor that hardly makes a sound now.

regards,
andrew



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