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RE: curved wood sw

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These are all things I have considered...  I have a fairly smooth radius of
30'.  The shear itself is nominal.  However, this being a non-bearing wall,
I don't have much to resist uplift, other than the footing self wgt.
Obviously, if I can get away with a few holdowns, or even none, that's much
better than designing 4 individual wall segments.  Not the apocalypse by any
means...
Thanks all.

David A. Topete, SE

-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Bruckman [mailto:bruckmandesign(--nospam--at)verizon.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:06 AM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
Subject: RE: curved wood sw

In addition, you need to think about how you are going to actually build it.
Most curved walls are constructed with plywood plates and sills which
wouldn't work well for boundary nailing.  Thus the plate length and its
splices will be predicated on the radius of the curve and the width of the
dimensional lumber from which you cut the plates.  The smaller the radius,
the more splices you will need to worry about.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jordan Truesdell, PE [mailto:seaint1(--nospam--at)truesdellengineering.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 8:33 AM
To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
Subject: Re: curved wood sw

I believe your shear center will also be outside of the section (a 
distance away from the convex side) which may induce torsional effects. 
-worth considering if you try idealize it at a short cantilevered beam.

Jordan




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