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Re: sill plate

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For unit shear under 650 plf, can't you also just add more anchor
bolts and avoid the 3x sill?  Seems like that might tear up that old
plate less...

Chris

On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 11:34 AM, Gaines, David <David.Gaines(--nospam--at)hdrinc.com> wrote:
> Tim,
>
> For a sill plate in the desert I wouldn't worry too much about dry rot. You
> can ask Joe Venuti in Palm Springs, CA for confirmation of that idea. If the
> building is 20+ years old I would look for signs of moisture intrusion. Also
> check the height of the sill above exterior grade and drainage away from the
> building. If there is landscaping or sprinklers look for signs that water is
> hitting the building. The wood siding will not weather well either if it's
> getting wet. Look for any indications that water might be a problem around
> the base of the walls and correct it.
>
> For the metal flashing between the T1-11 siding and the sill plate, it
> sounds like the flashing sits flat. That should not inhibit the nail
> embedment or the nail slip in sill or plywood. Maybe others here have test
> data or experience with this. I've not heard of any shear wall tests
> regarding the flashing.
>
> Are you adding nails for the shear wall loads? Are the sills split at this
> time? If not, I would leave well enough alone. If you're adding nails then
> the added blocking is a good idea. But that will require nailing the
> blocking down to the existing sill plate. Predrill the holes to avoid
> splitting, or predrill and use screws.
>
> Dave Gaines
> gainesengr(--nospam--at)earthlink.net
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: Pinyon Engineering [mailto:Pinyonengineering(--nospam--at)hughes.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 10:41 AM
> To: seaint(--nospam--at)seaint.org
> Subject: sill plate
>
> Hi,
> I am working on a wood framed fire station built in the mid 1980's in a dry
> desert climate in California (used to be seismic zone 4)- they poured a 1.5"
> curb for the walls to get them above the concrete floor.  they have a z type
> sheet metal flashing that covers the exterior slab insulation and is flush
> to the sill plate with the T1-11 plywood siding nailed thru the flashing to
> the sill plate.
>
> Problem # 1 - the sill plate is not redwood or pressure treated - should we
> replace it or can I have them inject asphalt under the plate to limit
> moisture from the concrete. or apply some other wonder chemical to prevent
> rot. the concern here would be dry rotting of the sill (the typical failure
> mode here)
>
> Problem # 2 - is the sheet metal ok between the sill plate and the plywood
> T1-11 shear panel.  the shear to the wall in the addition is 493 plf - I
> prefer 3x6 sill plate for the 10d nailing  I could add blocking on top of
> the sill for the nailing
>
> I will be adding holddowns and all new epoxy sill plate anchor bolts as part
> of the project
>
> any ideas are welcomed
>
> Tim Rudolph
> Pinyon Engineering
> Bishop CA
>
>

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