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Re: Concrete Bench With Wall

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Tom made the correct recommendation. Diwydag anchors work great in these applications. You can mount the threaded flange to the back of the form, and after form removal you simply thread the male end of the assembly into place. They are not costly.
Make sure you intentionally roughen the cold joint, and I would suggest a concrete adhesive to protect from water infiltration into the joint.
If you mount a 1 x (seat thickness)  continuous nailer on the inside face of the form, with the Diwydag flanges mounted to that, its a great method of horizontal control, and gives you a 3/4 inch key the full depth of the seat, which assists in making the joint more water tight.
Make sure you check the wall for the reduced thickness in this area.

--- On Thu, 2/26/09, seaint04(--nospam--at) <seaint04(--nospam--at)> wrote:
From: seaint04(--nospam--at) <seaint04(--nospam--at)>
Subject: Concrete Bench With Wall
To: seaint(--nospam--at)
Date: Thursday, February 26, 2009, 8:56 AM

I've been asked to design a retaining wall with a built-in bench.  The wall
retains about 6 feet of soil.  The bench wants to be on the low side of the
wall.  The architect would like to cantilever the bench out from the face
of wall.

I'm looking at this two ways. One way would be to form the seat with the
wall and pour it together monolithic.  I haven't done ornamental type work.
 I see this as a real pain to form the wall and seat together.  Also, the
seat would need a top surface form and the question I have is how to assure
the seat part of the formwork was filled sufficiently with concrete while
pouring.  I thought about putting a construction joint in the wall at the
top of the seat elevation.  I don't like the idea of two separate pours. 
Any ideas as to how to detail a monolithic seat and wall?

My other though is to pour the wall separate and then pour the seat.  This
is back to 2 pours.  The challenge I see is how to develop the bars
sticking out for the seat.  I need full moment capacity but I do not have
enough wall to develop the bar by the time it reaches the face of wall. 
Any ideas as to how to get a full bar developed in the wall?  If there was
no bench I could use an 8" thick wall.  I could justify going to 12"
if I needed it. This still doesn't develop a hooked #4 bar with adequate

Thanks for your insight.


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