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Re: Sill bolts on metal decking question.

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Joe,
What about having the steel fabricator pre-drill holes in the top flanges,
more than you may need for some field adjustments, and then placing
all-thread rods once the deck is in place (for uplift force transfer into
the steel beams)?  Have the rods protrude above the finished floor and then
place concrete around them. If you want an uplift only connection, you
could cast a small sleeve and then place the tension rod through the sleeve
to avoid shear/bearing from the rod to the slab. This would involve only
having to drill/punch holes through the steel deck from underneath once the
deck is in place.

Since you are using headed studs for shear transfer from the walls into the
beams, are you going to design them as composite beams also?

Good Luck.
Andrew Kester, PE
Florida

On Wed, Mar 5, 2014 at 2:02 AM, Joe Venuti <jovenengr(--nospam--at)verizon.net> wrote:

> Hello All
> 
> I have a project with three building units
> 
> Main House  L-shaped 28'x65'one leg 54'x35' other leg.        Guest house
> 
> 30'x30'          Workshop            26'x33'
> 
> All floors are W6x25 steel beams w/ 4" concrete over 11/2" BN-36 metal
> decking at all building edges.  All floor decks extend 4.5' beyond the
> supporting CMU wall below all around all sides of the buildings.
> 
> Architect's 12" total floor thickness.
> 
> CMU walls vary from 2.5'-4.5' in height.
> 
> The walls about the deck are 2x6 wood studs.  In the past I have placed
> steel beams beneath all shear walls and installed welded studs @ CL of
> steel beams to engage the sill plates in shear walls.
> 

Truncated 305 characters in the previous message to save energy.

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