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Re: Sill bolts on metal decking question.

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It depends on the beam and flange thickness, and the load, but you can do
it if you check it and it works. Usually stiffeners in general are more
expensive then upsizing the steel shape to make it work for whatever forces
you are dealing with.

On Wed, Mar 5, 2014 at 11:15 AM, NW27 <nw27(--nospam--at)> wrote:

> Andrew, Joe
> That good idea
> but don't put the load on the flange
> the rod should bolted to 3 inch SQ. plate between two stiff. welded to 
> the web All uplift or down load transfer to the web
> good luck
> nw
> On Mar 5, 2014, at 5:49 AM, Andrew Kester <akester74(--nospam--at)> wrote:
>> Joe,
>> What about having the steel fabricator pre-drill holes in the top
>> flanges, more than you may need for some field adjustments, and then
>> placing all-thread rods once the deck is in place (for uplift force
>> transfer into the steel beams)?  Have the rods protrude above the
>> finished floor and then place concrete around them. If you want an 
>> uplift only connection, you could cast a small sleeve and then place the 
>> tension rod through the sleeve to avoid shear/bearing from the rod to 
>> the slab. This would involve only having to drill/punch holes through 
>> the steel deck from underneath once the deck is in place.

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